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Topics - Madame Buttonfly

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106
Measuring - The Iron Heart Method / Bottoms - How to Measure
« on: February 17, 2012, 04:14:32 pm »
Tom at Iron Heart The Works in Hachioji is the measuring expert (amongst many other things). She says the best way to sort your sizing out is as follows:

Measure a pair of jeans that fit you well, using Tom's instructions below.

Then compare with the measurements of the jeans you are considering.  The sizing charts are on every product page under the "Sizing" tab, which is to the right of the "description" tab....


DO NOT TRUST WHAT THE TAG SIZE SAYS ON YOUR JEANS, IT IS OFTEN A MYTH.  WE HAVE HAD TAG SIZE 32 SENT IN TO US FOR HEMMING THAT MEASURED 39"






HOW TO MEASURE BOTTOMS

Do not go by tag size alone, we suggest you take a pair of jeans/bottoms that fit you well and measure them and then compare with measurements on our product pages to get your sizing correct.

Waist:  button the top button on the jeans/trousers, and pull them so that they sit flat in order to measure from centre of back to front closure, then double this measurement.

The image below shows how to measure your waist the Iron Heart way!



The image below shows how NOT to measure your waist the Iron Heart way!



Front Rise:  measure from the central crotch seam to the top of the front waistband.






Rear Rise:  measure from the central crotch seam to the top of the rear waistband.






Thigh:  lay the jeans flat ensuring that any rear rise fabric is to the left of the centre seam and measure the TOTAL width (not just to the centre seam) ensuring that the measuring tape is at right angles to the weft (white) yarns (for denim).




Knee:  measure 13” down the inseam from the central crotch seam, at this point measure across the width of the leg.






Hem (or Cuff):  with the leg side seams together, measure the width of the leg opening.




Inseam:  measure down the inseam of the leg from the central crotch seam to the bottom of the leg.




107
Measuring - The Iron Heart Method / Shirts and Jackets - How to Measure
« on: February 17, 2012, 04:10:05 pm »
Tom at Iron Heart The Works, in Hachioji is the measuring expert (amongst many other things), She says the best way to sort your sizing out is as follows:

Measure a similar item to the one you are thinking of buying,  that fits you well, using Toms instructions below.

Then compare with the measurements of the top you are considering.  The sizing charts are on every product page under the "sizing" tab, which is to the right of the "description" tab....



HOW WE MEASURE TOPS


Shoulder
:  fold the garment in half down the centre so that the back of the shoulder sleeve seams meet to find the centre of the back of the collar. Measure from the top of the arm/shoulder seam to the centre of the back of the collar and then (a) measure back down to the top of the other arm/shoulder seam, OR (b) double this measurement.










Length:  measure from centre of the bottom of the collar to the centre of bottom of garment.




Chest (P2P):  lay the garment flat and measure the full width from pit to pit (which may be slightly over the side seams if the back of the garment is slightly wider than the front).





Waist: lay the garment flat and measure across the narrowest part of the body (which may be slightly over the side seams if the back of the garment is slightly wider than the front).



Opening:  lay the garment flat and measure the full width between bottom of side seams (which may be slightly over the side seams if the back of the garment is slightly wider than the front).  If the shirt has gussets at the bottom of the side seams, the measurement is taken across the garment to the top of the gussets.





Arm: Measure from shoulder seam to bottom of arm on the outside of the arm.




108
Iron Heart Meet Ups & Travel / G&P in Bologna Dec 2011
« on: December 08, 2011, 12:27:54 pm »
Trains and boats and planes... on our way to Bologna for long weekend!  First the ferry from Gosport to Portsmouth Harbour



Now on train to Gatwick, doing some work and - most important - programming Georgeel’s number into my phone!




109
The Resource Centre / Iron Heart Product Care Guidelines
« on: November 25, 2011, 09:53:33 am »
We don’t consider ourselves the total experts on how to wash and care for your Iron Heart gear, but here are some guidelines that might help. Extra special attention should be taken with the Superblack (SB), SBG (Superblack Fades to Grey) and Cotton Duck fabrics, as these are susceptible to white marks and creases if not washed with special care.

Raw Denim (by “raw” we mean the fabric has gone through no post-weave processing at all) – raw denim is sometimes referred to as “loom-state”.

Always soak before wearing, not only does this shrink the raw denim to tag size, it also beds in the constructional stitching, lessening the possibility of a stitching problem (e.g. crotch blowout).  Ideally soak inside-out for an hour or so in a bathtub or large sink of hot water and drip dry.  The more you agitate the garment, the more likely you are to get all the shrinkage out of the fabric.  If you cannot drip dry, soak up the excess water with an old towel and lie flat on a clothes rack to dry.
We currently stock the following raw denim items: NONE AT PRESENT (but watch this space).

Extra Heavy Selvedge (XHS) 25oz Denim
Our XHS denim is sanforized but the jeans are unwashed, so there is a little shrinkage to be expected (but not as much as a raw denim). If your XHS jeans start out as a good, snug fit then you can either soak them and go through a bit of pain, or wear them for a while until they stretch out a little before washing them (using the washing guidelines immediately below).

Washing Sanforized Denim and Pre-Soaked Raw Denim (does not need soaking before wearing)
1.   Turn garment inside-out
2.   Hand wash, or machine wash* on relatively short cycle (max          40°C/100°F) with slow or no spin
3.   Shake/stretch item to ensure no creases before drip drying or          drying flat on clothes rack
4.   Do not tumble dry (this is likely to cause shrinkage and
   white marks)

Washing SB, SBG Denim, Cotton Duck
1.   Turn garment inside-out
2.   Hand wash in bathtub or large sink, or make garment wet before putting in washing machine*
3.   Use a liquid vegetable soap (powder and flakes are more likely          to leave residue)
4.   Wash on a gentle cycle
5.   DO NOT use the spin cycle (this is very important)
6.   After washing, use a towel to soak up the extra water
7.   Drip-dry or lie flat on a clothes rack to dry
8.   Do not tumble dry (this is likely to cause shrinkage and
   white marks)

Cotton Flannel or Chambray Shirts, Cotton Whipcord (Unlined), T-Shirts and Sweatshirts/Hoodies
These can be washed on a regular machine* cycle, (max 40°C/100°F).  To avoid shrinking, DO NOT tumble dry – hang or lie garments flat to dry and press if required.  Cotton Whipcord alpaca lined deck jackets and vests are dry-clean (with petroleum solvent) only.

Primaloft®
Primaloft® lined garments can be washed on a regular machine* cycle, (max 40°C/100°F) and, provided the outer shell is synthetic, can be tumble dried on a low heat setting.

*Our experience is with UK front-loading washing machines, please be extra careful if using American large top loading washers, from what we have learned these can be much more vigorous, resulting in a harsher wash and/or more than usual shrinkage.

Leather Jackets, Shirts, Wesco® Boots and Accessories
All leather garments should be hung correctly, stored in well-aired locations and not crushed. Never store leather garments, boots or accessories near a direct heat source such as a radiator, fire, hot water tank (airing cupboard) etc. or in view of direct sunlight for any prolonged periods. Exposure to high heat sources or sunlight will dry out and potentially discolour leather.  A good quality leather nourishing cream will help to keep leather supple and probably only needs application once or twice a year, it will also have light cleaning properties. We stock a number of leather care products for our footwear and other leather products. You don’t have to use any leather treatment or waterproofing on deerskin or horsehide, it simply isn’t necessary.

Cowhide
Cowhide is a tough leather with a very supple feel and should not require any breaking in. Generally black or brown cowhide garments will not show up marks easily so they are pretty easy to care for. If your jacket gets wet, wipe off the surface moisture with a clean dry towel and hang it up in a well ventilated area, but not too near a direct heat source. Let it dry naturally. If you get oil or grease on your garment then put some flour or talcum powder on the stain, leave until the following day, wipe the majority of the powder away with a clean cloth and use a damp cloth to remove any residue.

Horsehide
Horsehide is an extremely tough leather and will require some breaking in. This leather is packed with waxes and oils in the tanning process and like any wax it stiffens when cold. Warmth from wearing the jacket will soften the hide so it’s pliable and comfortable. Treating horsehide is easy:  do nothing, absolutely nothing. Be tough, wear it and love it! If unworn for sometime, horsehide can show a “bloom” of white on its surface, this is just the wax used in the tanning process, it can be rubbed off with a dry cloth.

Deerskin
Deerskin is the softest and most supple of all of the leathers, it can even be put in the washing machine, if you’re brave enough (we’re a bit too scared). It is happy being immersed in water and will soften up and retain its shape once dry. It is therefore the easiest leather to clean (follow the cleaning guidelines for cowhide) but be careful of exposing light coloured deerskin to dark coloured clothing (such as indigo jeans) as this may cause the garment to take on unwanted colour.

Rough-out
It is always best to have clean and dry, non oily hands when handling rough-out garments. If you should get caught out in the rain it should be fine for a short period if untreated, and the garment should be allowed to dry naturally i.e. do not place it over heaters or radiators. Once the garment is fully dried a light brush with a high quality soft clothes brush may be needed. Soft cleaning sponges can be used where marks appear and a light brushing using a soft bristle clothes brush can be used to reduce/remove marks. When caring for rough-out footwear, remove any dirt from the surface of the boot with a bristle brush and use a suede eraser to remove any marks. Then, using the bristle brush, scrub the area thoroughly. Suede protectors can be used to maintain protection.



Returns / Exchanges

We offer a no-quibble returns and exchanges policy and will accept the return of any item bought from our online store, provided it is returned within 30 days of receipt and unworn/unused, in a resaleable condition with all tags still attached (kindly fold and pack garments being returned with care). PLEASE NOTE we cannot accept returns on any item that has been altered specifically to a client’s request (e.g. hemmed jeans).

THE COST OF RETURNING ITEMS TO US IS AT PURCHASER’S EXPENSE. Please email us at sales@ironheart.co.uk before returning an item so that we know to expect your package.

YOU CAN ORDER YOUR RETURN SHIPMENT AT WWW.IRONHEART.CO.UK/RETURNS-SHIPPING - this is a fast, tracked returns shipment service at a reasonable cost – the process is simple and designed to save you time, trouble and expense.

RETURN OF GOODS FROM NON EUROPEAN UNION COUNTRIES: it is important that you mark the items as RETURNED GOODS and declare the value at no more than USD30 (if you don’t do this, we often end up paying taxes and duties on the item for a second time around).

If you don’t wish to order your return shipment via our website, we don’t mind which postal/courier service you use to return the goods (although we would ask you to avoid FedEx as we always seem to get hit with extra charges). If the goods do not arrive here, we are afraid that we can’t accept responsibility for the loss so we recommend you use a tracked service, ideally with signature on delivery. Please ensure you put something on the inside or outside of the package so that we can easily identify you as the sender (name or order number).

Refunds will be made by original payment method. First exchanges (exchange item/s with value of $200 or more) will be re-shipped for free. If exchanged items are subsequently returned we will charge shipping for a second exchange or will deduct regular regional shipping cost from refund/credit.

Items bought from the IH Outlet – if valid for return (some items are clearly marked on the website as non-returnable)
– will not be refunded, we will issue a store credit voucher.

Upon receipt of returned items, Iron Heart will issue a refund or store credit, or ship an exchange, as required. Please allow 7 working days for returns to be processed once they reach our workshop and a further 3 days for any refund to appear in your account. If you have received a small promotional gift – for example some stickers – please keep this if you wish to!

The address for returns is below, if you wish you can detach and use as an address label.



110
The Archives / Danish Wedding Outfit Dilemma
« on: July 06, 2011, 03:34:49 pm »
Posting on behalf of Forum Member Copenhagen, who can pick up on replies and PMs following on from this.  He mentioned in an email exchange today that he's getting married in September and has a real problem planning what to wear.  In his (slightly edited) words:

What the hell do I do that day? I feel I have to respect that I need to dress up, but I'll rather have root canal surgery by Liam and Noel Gallagher than be seen with af f****** glossy tie! Help me!!!
 
The wedding will be for 65 people, a minimum of family attend, it's mostly friends. No kids, except our own twins. It'll be held in a factory room in Copenhagen - it's a simple man's wedding.


My response was that he should ask all you experts for your input, so over to you and Copenhagen, I shall follow with interest!

 :)



111
Iron Heart Meet Ups & Travel / The G&P June 2011 US/Mexico Road Trip
« on: April 08, 2011, 12:16:21 pm »
We are so excited, our June trip has become increasingly amazing.  We get to party in Los Angeles, we get to party in Mexico, we get to party in San Francisco and now we also get to party at Doug's wedding in Las Vegas.  AND if that wasn't exciting enough, we are roadtripping between San Francisco and Las Vegas, travelling through incredible places we've only ever seen in photos and have always dreamed of visiting.

So purpose of this is not to brag about how incredibly lucky we are (although we know we are), but because we need advice on planning the roadtrip, and can't think of a better crowd to call upon for help.

Our tentative plan is to leave San Francisco on Wednesday 22nd June, probably late afternoon, and drive (approx 4 hours I think?) to stay overnight just before entrance to Yosemite (somewhere cheap and cheerful - I can research).  Any suggestions on which town we should head for?  (BTW, I already checked the Yosemite accommodations, they are almost all completely booked, and those that have availability are way above our budget!)

Thursday 23rd head into Yosemite National Park as early as poss and spend most of the day, leaving mid/late afternoon and driving to/close to Death Valley, again any suggestions on what a good stopover point would be?

Friday 24th drive through/visit Death Valley and then head on to Las Vegas.  Would like to reach Vegas by 3pm latest.

As well as advice on towns/accommodation we might stay in, I just want to sanity-check this rough itinerary - if anyone has better ideas then all suggestions most welcomed!

Many thanks
MB
 :-*

112
Sport / WORLD CUP 2010
« on: June 10, 2010, 08:15:25 pm »
Tomorrow is going to be a great day

Worldcup + WTWJ day ****
Yey, can't wait, we'll make sure we do honour to WTWJ day.  Then England v USA on Saturday, and of course will be watching Germany v Australia on Sunday!  England and Germany in the final would be SO amazing. 


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