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Author Topic: Age Appropriate Too Vintage  (Read 353 times)

Offline profdbrk

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Age Appropriate Too Vintage
« on: October 04, 2020, 09:13:07 pm »
Apologies.  A bit prolix.  That comes with my job.

I've been scouting out the FW2020 drops from lots of companies that we on this board tend to admire.  So a few thoughts about what's "cool" in what I would call an inclusive way.  Everyone should like what they like.  Feeling comfortable with yourself might be one of the most important things you can do for yourself even as you aim to do something good for others.

Disclaimer: my father was something of a clothes horse in the 1950s.  He had suits made for him, bespoke shoes imported from Loeb and delivered to our home.  He was an architect and he had fine style.  My elder brother was more hippy than greaser (as we put it) but think E Street Band 1970 and you get the picture.  That was more my paradigm.  But family fortunes changed and I wore hand-me-downs until I was 30 years old.  Literally.  When I started to make a living, I needed to look like a professor even though I was barely older than my students.  What the Japanese now call Ivy or Ametora was normal for me those many years ago: button downs, tweeds, sweater vest, even the occasional bow tie.  You will forgive me  J.Press was literally across the street.  The worst thing that happens to old guys, as I see it, is that they start not to care at all how they present themselves and that's a shame.  The key is always to feel good and look effortless.  That's where IH comes in.  I don't do Ivy anymore unless it's called for, like a college graduation scene.

As I see it Iron Heart is an effortless style rather than vintage style.  I like some brands a lot that are much more overtly vintage conscious---Trophy Clothing, Himel Bros, and even Dehon come to mind. They do some moto-culture Brando and McQueen but there's a lot that goes back further into Ametora.  Not all of what they do works as well (in my opinion) on an old guy like me as it does on younger gents.  Of course the whole Buzz Ricksons and Real McCoys are brilliant at what they do but at age 63 there is such a thing as too vintage. I will return to that.

And there is definitely too contemporary, too young.  I think it was @Giles who said that an old guy shouldn't be wearing skinny jeans and I would wholly agree though I'd say IH's 555 are not too skinny.  Most of what is considered contemporary fashion doesn't look very good on old guys and old guy fashion is often too square, too Dad-bod, just horrid---like J.Press or Brooks Bros., which has its own Japanese followings but makes you look like a cheap politician.

Too vintage includes all sorts of replica looks.  I wouldn't wear a Vietnam or WWII replica jacket---too close to worlds I came from.  Too much the 1930s iron worker on a sky scraper and you look like you are playing old man dress up.  But I also wouldn't wear a sweater with elbow patches because I already look far too much like a college professor (I am).  That same elbow patch sweater or baker boy cap looks very cool to me on you younger gents, but for me it's far too close to my actual stereotype.  So I don't do work wear that looks like it's 1950: that edge looks sharper on a younger man as I see it.  IH always seems to me the ground where any one of any age can stand. 

I have now had a lot of different looks for a guy who has had literally the same job for 35+ years.  Age appropriate reminds me sometimes to look but not to buy.
Qui plume a, guerre a. 不完全さは美しさ,です狂気は天才です

Offline Giles

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Re: Age Appropriate Too Vintage
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2020, 07:30:44 am »
Feeling comfortable with yourself might be one of the most important things you can do for yourself
I wish I could write, and there is definitely a lot I agree with in your post, but the above is really the nub of everything....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011