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Author Topic: Hand and Power Tools  (Read 2253 times)

Offline Chris

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2019, 06:17:58 pm »
Hipster
You know you want one, too...

(I bought it about five years ago at Lowe's, which is the most hipster big box hardware store, I'll concede)

And no lie- I've had that exact sharpener on my Amazon wish list since November 20, 2016, after one of my favorite bootmakers recommended it.  Now that all my stuff is finally out of storage, maybe I'll finally get it.
« Last Edit: January 19, 2019, 06:21:29 pm by Chris »

Offline Aetas

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #16 on: January 23, 2019, 08:00:39 pm »
"0122-3_20190122161912eeds.jpg"

"0122-5_20190122161915f01s.jpg"

From the Iron Heart Boss Talk.
Tool set in an IH made roll-up case.  Stamped serial number 1/21 to 21/21 and with flannel inside.


Offline DougNg

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #17 on: February 02, 2019, 02:22:11 pm »
@Chris


Got the Worksharp Ken Onion Edition this week. It's ok for large knives, but I almost immediately bought this thing:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J9AADN6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


After ten+ years of freehand sharpening on a belt sander, this is my speed. I got it last night and it's a nice upgrade.



I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

Offline motojobobo

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #18 on: February 02, 2019, 03:13:18 pm »
@Aetas , is the IH roll case available for purchase?
The journey is the objective.

Offline DougNg

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #19 on: February 02, 2019, 03:34:59 pm »
Just gave this bit of advice to Giles because he's thinking of getting the Worksharp. Might be handy to anyone else thinking of getting it



Get some extra belts too. You'll need three different sets. One for the main kit.One for the knife grinder kit.And a stropping kit for the knife grinder.You'll burn through a bunch of belts learning how to grind. It's also handy to have new belts handy so you can tell how worn in your belts are. You should be able to tell by feel.The easiest way to find out if you're using the right angle is to color in the edge with a sharpie and see how the edge is contacting the edge.Success is measured by how consistent your edge is from heel to tip and then symmetry between both sides.Start on a slow speed or you'll wind up with recurved edges.Don't let your edge get hot. If the edge feels warm dunk it in some water.The cheapest knives you'll find are best for learning. The steel is softer. Remember that the steel is softer when you start on nicer knives, which have a harder steel.I've been grinding steel for a LONG time. The funny thing is you'll find that even shitty knives are really useful when you know how to sharpen and reprofile. The cost to benefit ratio becomes pretty narrow when you get good at this.The real test is when you can make a 79 cent knife work as good as a 300 dollar kitchen knife.

I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

Offline Giles

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #20 on: February 02, 2019, 03:56:32 pm »
@Aetas , is the IH roll case available for purchase?
Haraki only made 21 and I think they'll all be staying in Japan I am afraid....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Chris

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #21 on: February 02, 2019, 07:20:02 pm »
ten+ years of freehand sharpening
See, this is the part I'm trying to avoid.  I want to spend my time making things using sharp knives, not spend my time making knives sharp.  If I can get something that gives me a good edge without much time or effort, then that's the option I'm taking...

Offline mclaincausey

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #22 on: February 02, 2019, 07:21:52 pm »
Spyderco Sharpmaker?
Think it, be it.

Offline DougNg

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #23 on: February 02, 2019, 07:42:02 pm »
@Chris


If you're looking for "good enough" the Worksharp Ken Onion will do the job (without the blade grinding attachment)


I would still get a bit of practice on a couple cheap knives.


Once you have your knives reprofiled, you can just do quick touch ups on a Spyderco Sharpmaker. Set the edge to 15 degrees each side, then sharpen on the Sharpmaker at 20 (40 degrees inclusive) and you should be good for awhile. When touch ups just don't do it anymore, take it back to the Worksharp.


I don't recommend most people use the Worksharp regularly and for touch ups, it takes off a lot of steel.
I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose

Offline Chris

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #24 on: February 03, 2019, 03:00:38 am »
Do you use the Spyderco a lot, Doug?  I've used similar, though cheaper, sharpeners and didn't really like them.  I think what appeals to me about the Worksharp is that I'm less likely to move the knife around and screw up the sharpening process.  I like your tip about the marker; definitely gonna use that one.

Offline DougNg

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #25 on: February 03, 2019, 03:03:58 am »
I do use the Spyderco a lot. It's handy for touch ups right before a carving task, or just routine touch ups.


One warning, you can't go on autopilot for the Worksharp. At some point the blade is going to narrow (I guess with the exception of a cleaver) and it's going to slip off the guide if you're not paying attention. If you let that happen weird things are going to happen to the tip.
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Offline DougNg

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Re: Hand and Power Tools
« Reply #26 on: February 03, 2019, 03:07:28 am »
The problem you're probably encountering with the cheaper sharpeners is probably one of two things:


1) You've sharpened/steeled the knife too many times and it needs to be reprofiled. The Worksharp is good for that. I like a 30 degree primary bevel and a 40 degree secondary bevel


2) You have knives set at the factory with a stupidly obtuse angle and it needs to be reprofiled (see above)
I know violence is not the answer, I got it wrong on purpose