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Author Topic: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket  (Read 3165 times)

Online neph93

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TIIIBSP2019-OD -  23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket

An Iron Heart modified type III jacket, exclusive to Self Edge, made of unsanforised 23oz Indigo denim. This jacket has been overdyed black with a fugitive pigment dye which is an unstable and un-permanent dye that fades to later show the indigo denim underneath. Essentially this is a denim that begins black and fades to indigo in high friction areas, or what the Japanese call the "atari" fade.

S-XXXL

USD550

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Offline Dion

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #1 on: August 20, 2019, 10:18:22 am »
Here is the link to it in the SE shop.

Offline Chad

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #2 on: August 20, 2019, 05:09:44 pm »
Was really tempted to grab this one during the sale, but opted for the SEXIH07IIIBK due to measurements

Offline cj

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2019, 03:26:45 am »
So it turns out that I grabbed one of these during the SE sale in an XL due to the measurements... Been wearing it for a couple of days to see how it drapes, but have come to the conclusion that it might be a bit too big for me. The shoulders are fine as well as the arm length and the room in the chest, but I'm concerned about the length. Should have done this earlier but I'll take some photos of me wearing it to get a second opinion. Shouldn't have been too eager to wear it (you live and you learn).

Edit: I've decided that there's no need to post fit pics because (1) I'm bad at doing them and (2) I've decided that the jacket is indeed too large for my size. Should be up in the B&S thread with all the required details. In the meantime, if you'd like to PM me any questions, please do!
« Last Edit: August 21, 2019, 01:17:33 pm by cj »

Offline cj

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2019, 01:49:43 pm »
Just some pics of the one that I have... I would say that even at this weight, the jacket is still very wearable; that is, the thickness of the seams don't cause any discomfort. The jacket is initially quite stiff so it can look a little awkward when sitting down with the middle buttons done up. I'm sure that with more wear, the fabric will soften and drape better. I like the stealth-like nature of the pockets (tonal stitching as opposed to contrast).

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Offline Alexander

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2019, 02:21:48 pm »
Hi everybody!
First of all, great forum! Great content. I’m a passive user since quite a bit and just got my first “real” jeans jacket after being in the leather jacket game for quite some time.
I treated myself with a 23oz Type III overdyed jacket (selfedge), which I bought in the NYC store. It fits like a glove, but I would appreciate to get some advice on the first days. The denim is unsanforized but all the shrinkage is gone due to the overdoing process if I understood correctly. Is there any soaking before starting to wear the jacket necessary? I read a lot about that this would prolong the lifetime as it removes starch and dusk residue which could, if not removed, cause premature breaking of the garment.
Appreciate your answers! Pictures following soon.
Cheers,
Alex

Online neph93

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2019, 02:25:14 pm »
Hi everybody!
First of all, great forum! Great content. I’m a passive user since quite a bit and just got my first “real” jeans jacket after being in the leather jacket game for quite some time.
I treated myself with a 23oz Type III overdyed jacket (selfedge), which I bought in the NYC store. It fits like a glove, but I would appreciate to get some advice on the first days. The denim is unsanforized but all the shrinkage is gone due to the overdoing process if I understood correctly. Is there any soaking before starting to wear the jacket necessary? I read a lot about that this would prolong the lifetime as it removes starch and dusk residue which could, if not removed, cause premature breaking of the garment.
Appreciate your answers! Pictures following soon.

Hi Alex,

You don’t need to do anything other than wear it. The overdying has taken everything out of it, including starch, dust etc.

Offline Alexander

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #7 on: October 22, 2019, 04:03:49 pm »
Thank you for your immediate reply!!!

Offline Alexander

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2019, 05:15:10 am »
Another question while familiarizing myself with all the terminology. I saw there was also a 19oz left hand twill version of the overdyed jacket made which will likely be restocked in December. The left hand twill is described as the toughest/ one of the toughest denims available. Also, I read that left hand twill fades a are little more fuzzy compared to right hand twill. Now looking at this 23oz version - How does this compare in terms is “toughness” or durability. I would love to better understand the different characteristics between these two versions.


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Offline Giles

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2019, 08:11:42 am »
The LHT is probably the toughest denim we make, getting anymore accurate than that almost impossible.  This is not a science so massive amounts of subjectivity need to be applied.  When OD'd, how the indigo version of the denim fades is irrelevant as the OD process changes everything.
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Alexander

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2019, 01:07:32 pm »
The LHT is probably the toughest denim we make, getting anymore accurate than that almost impossible.  This is not a science so massive amounts of subjectivity need to be applied.  When OD'd, how the indigo version of the denim fades is irrelevant as the OD process changes everything.

Thanks Gilles! It seems to me that the LHT has only advantages compared to the RHT - softer hand, more durable, more structure in the fabric. What's the reason the RHT is so popular, also at Iron Heart. Don't get me wrong. I love my new 23oz OD version, but a quite voice in my head says that I maybe should have waited for the LHT version that supposedly -according to you ;) - gets restocked in December.

Offline Giles

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2019, 01:23:08 pm »
There are no inherent advantages to one or the other, it's just a case of what people like..  It's all subjective. 
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Alexander

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2019, 01:25:11 pm »
There are no inherent advantages to one or the other, it's just a case of what people like..  It's all subjective.

Makes sense. BTW, I am impressed by how responsive you are! Great job, thanks!

Online neph93

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2019, 06:46:27 pm »
@Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.

The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.

The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.

I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.

Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712

Offline Alexander

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Re: TIIIBSP2019-OD - 23oz Overdyed Indigo Modified Type III Jacket
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2019, 09:05:52 pm »
@Alexander one of the things that fascinates denimheads, and is especially interesting with IH, is the diverse effects and prioerties achievable when designing a fabric in terms of weight, weave and dyeing.

The flagship 21oz is remarkable because it has a relatively loose weave while remaining very durable. It is very soft and pliable while being thick and heavy at the same time.

The XHS is hard, crunchy and stiff
And initially saturated with dark indigo. It fades beautifully with quite unique lateral patterns and high contrast, while morphing into a wonderfully dense but cosy fabric through wear and washing.

I’m wearing my 19oz LHT jeans as I write, the same stuff as the jacket you mention, but without the overdying. It has a very interesting hand, colour and weave pattern that is relatively unusual, as is the fading it creates.

Btw, a forum funded IH-526L-od (od’ed 19oz type III) has been touring the world for the last 20 months or so. You can see the results here:

https://www.ironheart.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11072.msg620712#msg620712
Very helpful! Thank you so much! Is there any information available on the 23oz RHT? Is it basically the same as the 21oz flagship denim just with more weight?


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