Why Does Iron Hear Not Used Felled Inner Seams on Jeans?
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There are 3 types of sewing for inner seam:
- interlock (overlock and chain stitch at one time)
- interlock, fold one side then lock stitch over the interlock (which IH does)
- felled seam
Actually, a felled seam is one of the easiest ways if the operator gets used to it. But the crotch area will be also felled and it becomes very thick. It requires techniques and power. Also, the curve of the inner line for the front panel and the back panel has to be identical. If not, it’s hard to fell evenly and steady. If the trousers are not a work pants silhouette, it’s difficult.
Brands like Lee are good at work pants, a brand like Wrangler, their denim is broken twill so is soft, they tend to use felled seam for the inner seam. I guess it’s also related to what type of sewing machines they have.
At IH, we have lots of models (silhouettes) and heavy denim, lockstitch over interlock is suitable.
This is what I guess.
The truth might be, that Lee and Wrangler probably didn’t want to imitate Levi’s which started ahead.
HARAKI