Lighter-weight denim versus heavy-weight discussion
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This topic is to discuss the pros and cons of lighter-weight versus heavy weight denim.
Kiya couldn't keep the Flat Head 1001 in stock for a New York Minute. I called up SENY and they have just one pair in my size (W29) left in stock. The Flat Head 1001s quite literally FLEW off the shelves. I was very tempted to buy them but then asked myself an honest question – why go with a lighter weight denim when I love 21-oz -- even in the summer ? Asking that logical question prevented me from making an impulsive purchase which I'd later come to regret. I've even stopped fantasizing about the FH Type II 3XXX Denim Jacket for that reason -- it's simply too lightweight [14.5oz Unsanforized Japanese Selvedge Denim]. For my money, I'd rather go with an XS IH Melton Wool or an IH Ladies M denim jacket.
Kiya's also got the Real Japan Blues 105BSP on sale, cheap as fuck, 6 pair in stock in a W28 (my size). He's marked them down severely to make room for the 106BSP. I was tempted but they're only 13.75 oz, though unsanforized – shrink to tagged size (STF). I've seen evo pics of RJB (posted by Kiya) on SuFu, and they truly looked beautiful. But the lighter weight really bums me out. People on SuFu who buy the RJB though call them "crunchy", which I know denim-heads love.
So, what are your thoughts on heavy vs. light weight denim ?
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19 and 21 oz or bust.
Flat Head 3xxx denim is awesome TO THE EXTREMEST MAX though. Not to mention the fit on most models. The 1001 is def a model I see myself picking up 2ndhand just to try it.
I don't see myself wearing 21 oz when it's warm here, though. I'm ALWAYS warm. At work I usually work at outdoor temperatures in a s/s poloshirt with only an undershirt underneath, and I'm never cold. Freezing temperatures?.. No care. So yeah… 15 oz jeans and the likes will probs be welcomed and favoured in spring. Summer = shorts anyway.
But if I could, I'd always wear 19 and 21 oz jeans.
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weight of the denim is hardly what i would call a priority when looking at most other denim companies. Think of N&F :-[ nastayyyyy…
But to me, when you have that lighter weight denim, its not necessarily that you find heavier oz denim to be too hot, 16oz+, its that the cuts you want are in the lighter denim, and if its not the cuts, you are looking to get great fades and the cut which produces great fades is often that slim silhouette with a nice crunchy 14.5oz denim.
Most people who (prior to the 634sr) bought IH totally understood that they were not going to get amazing fades in about 30 wears and knew they were in it for the long haul and they wanted a pair of jeans that they could completely beat to hell. Someone who went in to SE and saw the 634s and the f-310 or the 3001 would probably go for the:
634s:
-because they wanted a nice, durable denim that would hold its indigo very well
-one new pair of jeans for the year
-not in any rush to fade
-in my opinion, it seems like its not for the younger market (better said, impatient market )f-310/3001:
-Crispy crunchy delicious 3XXX denim goodness
-Flash fading with high friction areas coming through in a matter of weeks
-modern slim cut with extra length for combs and stacking
-They saw Sidney Lo's pair and orgasmed, thus ruining their jeans and now looking to achieve a pair like his.I think that to judge jeans based on weight alone really cuts soooo many brands and companies short. There are such nice things that one can say about many many different brands that wont really be known unless you give them a chance, you know? Its like having a preference to having black jackets, but then you see this amazing blue one and you're a little hesitant to try it...but you shouldnt be. who knows, you just might like it. "give it a chance love..." (name the movie and you get me to go ;D)
just my 0.02 shubbz
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I mean: if I could choose between the exact same jeans, one being 14 oz, the other 19, I'd go for 19.
Of course it's ridiculous to base what jeans you want on its weight but I must say it feels like taking a step back when you're used to 21 oz and you put on a 15 oz pair (even if you really like the fit, stitching, fading qualities,…) Me legs were COLD even when I changed from my 21 oz SExIH07BKs to my SExFH05BSPs (15 oz)... ;D
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Okay - here´s the deal. I started out wearing 11oz denim - a Wrangler. Evolved to 13-14 , than 17 - and now I´m in love with 19oz. A nicely woven 14 oz denim - if washed ever once in a while - will last for a long time - and I still think that´s a great weight for denim. A 17oz denim can feel a lot sturdier and heavier than a 19oz denim - the feel of the denim actually depends on the length of the cotton fiber.
I think it´s great to have a pair of nicely worn in Flatheads that almost feel like sweatpants - and a super tough pair that just has that indestructible feel to it.
Regarding evolution - yes, it is easier to fade "light" weight denim since creases whiskers and combs tend to develop faster and more permanent.
But in the same token - while fading a pair of heavy weight denim might be a bit more of a challenge - it´s also more rewarding*
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Seul - ur SEXIH07 is 19oz
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Thought it was 21 oz post soak?..
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Its often about the cut for me, if I find a keeper (and bear in mind I fall outside of the norm in terms of body size) then I'm gonna multiple buy that fucker.
That said IH trumps most others in terms of quality.
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nope..19oz all the way…new denim developed for se..I can only think of the 634-sr special edition which is 21 pre - and 23 post soak..
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If thàt's IHs take on 19 oz, then I don't wanna know how their 23 oz'es feel. Fuck me. My 19 oz Sams are blown right out of the water by those. Those fibres most be as long as my… Well, I won't brag...
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Excellent post from deadendpro. Thanks.
I only have the heavy IH jeans (634SR and 9634Z) and other 10.5-12oz jeans. So the step down is considerable. When I put the other jeans on it almost feels like wearing a normal cloth pant. But only for a little while. After that it feels like wearing jeans again.
To me it is clear that the thicker material is much nicer but if the jeans look good and fit well I can very easily do with a lighter weight. I am tempted to try and intermediate weight, say 14-17, to see how I like that. I'm not sure but my estimate is that the Girbaud Pedal Pushers of yore I was wearing were around 14. Those were awesome.
Till
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Simon, dead – great reads ! Thank you for sharing. But still, I'm hearing a general vibe...once you try Iron Heart (heavy weight) on, you seem ruined for life. I've heard both Beats and Seul say that their SEXIH07BKs (though a flimsy 19-oz) are the best jeans they've ever owned in their lives. And we've heard Seul remark that his 19-oz Sams feel weak in comparison to his IH. This is very high praise for Iron Heart, considering how many types and brands of jeans have grazed the butts of Seul and Beatle ! Seul, if you like heavy shit -- you're missing out by not getting a pair of SuperBlacks man. You will simply love them ! Get the 9301 slims from SESF or the straight cuts. They are heavy as a motherfucker and yet so fitted and non-bulky looking. SuperBlacks are simply magical, IMHO.
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lol…long read
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Shubz: I will buy another pair of Iron Heart this year. I want a slim fitting indigo pair, preferably 21 or 23 oz. Overdyed would be completely ballin. So I hope one of the 3 new models will be a heavy, slim fitting indigo pair. I'll pick it up during the summer then (still have that bet going til July 01). I also hope it doesn't have the standard IH backpocket stitching as I thoroughly dislike that but hell I can always have it removed.
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nope..19oz all the way…new denim developed for se..I can only think of the 634-sr special edition which is 21 pre - and 23 post soak..
They're 19oz/sq yard pre soak, and these shrink. Therefore, they would weigh more than 19oz/sq yard post soak
Checked with Kiya. He said they're approximately 21oz post soak
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^ yeah, I always understood denim weight to refer to square yard after laundering. And as the weave tightens when an unsanforized jean is soaked, that is where the unsanforized gains oz's.
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There we go. 21 oz
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guys - if this were the case I´m sure Kiya would point that out in the description. I am pretty sure they are 19oz pre and post soak..
Quote se website
Unsanforized 19oz Indigo Selvedge Denim
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But they are overdyed - so already soaked…confused..well, maybe one day Kiya drops in and sheds some light...