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Author Topic: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??  (Read 10431 times)

Offline SpaceGnome

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chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« on: February 22, 2013, 06:22:42 pm »
I have an Iron Heart 46, which is described as Chambray by IH.  I believe that Self Edge calls it mock twist.  Is there  a difference?  Better yet, what exactly is chambray?  I was always under the impression it was just a really light weight denim, but I know thats not accurate.  I have a $30 "chambray" shirt from Uniqlo that feels like a regular shirt material.  What is chambray?  What is mock twist? 

As is standard, I searched and came up with nothing addressing these questions.  Please merge or delete as you see fit mods.  Im not sure if the resource forum is for questions about things like this or if its for Giles to drop knowledge on us, so I apologize in advance if my threads are out of the forum boundaries. 

Offline J-IV

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #1 on: February 22, 2013, 06:39:42 pm »
Good thread idea.

Curious on what made it differ from the other chambray out there. (speaking about IH's "salt and ___" fabric.) Speaking of which, what are those white specks on the fabric anyways. Is that what makes it a "mock twist?" I'm starting to see it TFH chambray shirts as well..


TFH


IH
« Last Edit: February 22, 2013, 06:41:26 pm by J-IV »

Offline MikeC

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2013, 08:04:08 pm »
I can definitely tell you the difference between chambray and denim, chambray is a plain weave 1x1 (typically) and denim is a twill weave, usually 2x1 or 3x1. And I believe mock twist chambray is when two yarns are twisted together, prior to weaving, where normal chambray doesn't use twisted yarns.  I've noticed that most iron heart fabrics are either a plain weave (chambray, Oxford cotton, cotton duck) or twill weave (denim, serge, wabash, flannel).  FYI, you tend to get more shrinkage out of a twill weave, where plain weaves don't shrink as much.

Offline Megatron1505

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #3 on: February 22, 2013, 08:10:33 pm »
Mike drops knowledge, interesting stuff man  :)
Made in England, clothed in Japan, fed in America and drunk in Belgium !

Offline SpaceGnome

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2013, 09:07:43 pm »
BOOM (thats the knowledge explosion of MikeC's mind bomb)

Thanks

Offline passthestripe

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2013, 09:37:44 pm »
SCIENCE, HOW DOES IT WORK!?

Thanks Mike, perhaps a skilled photographer out here with a great shirt collection should get some macro shots up to show what Mike is saying??

Offline SpaceGnome

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #6 on: February 23, 2013, 12:03:23 am »
I can try to get a shot of the IH 46.  Ill have to wait until the light is better though. 

Offline Giles

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #7 on: February 23, 2013, 02:18:09 am »
I do not have time to write a lot atm.  My plane leaves for Bangkok any minute.

Mock derives from the Japanese moku which means nep.  That is small lumpy imperfection in the white yarn which causes the white specks...

Haraki and I had a long discussion on the way to the airport.  We agreed we do not know enough to discuss mock twist or chambray (in greater depth than MikeC has already done), Ono is being grilled.  I will report back
« Last Edit: February 23, 2013, 02:21:11 am by Giles »
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Snowy

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #8 on: February 23, 2013, 03:29:54 am »
Reporting back on the Ono hopefully. As always, appreciate the open honesty.

Offline Giles

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #9 on: February 28, 2013, 05:18:57 pm »
This is a plain weave, which is what chambray is.  Chambray typically used a white weft and a coloured warp....

"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Giles

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #10 on: February 28, 2013, 05:20:11 pm »
And here are some twill weaves (which denim is a type of).....



"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Snowy

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Re: chambray vs mock twist vs regular fabric??
« Reply #11 on: March 01, 2013, 02:51:08 am »
And for those like me trying to 'see' the differences in the picks, I'll make it a little clearer....



Interesting, but that's a given :).