Watches - another OCD problem

[Tripleterror]

I too have a little watch problem.

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM111.
Omega Constelation Automatic - 1971 - a present to my dad from my grandad and one day from me to my son.
Tag Heuer 1500.
Omega Planet Ocean - planned for next year.
Tissot Mineral Case - 1971 - my grandads'.

There are too many beautiful watches out there !
Simon

[malibuboy]

hey guys,

i have been wearing a panerai 176h in titanium for the last few years. its the overbuilt bit i really like about the design.

excuse the poor iphone shot.

simon

[Heavy Duty]

I too have a little watch problem.


There are too many beautiful watches out there !
Simon

Sooooo true. In fact I shall be having a little nosey in some AD's tomorrrow

[tfar]

Yes, big watch freak here. I am not very judgmental in terms of price and brand. I know enough about watches (from a marketing, technical, historical and brand side) that I can appreciate the particular qualities of a $60 Swatch as much as those of a $100,000 Tourbillon watch (which I don't own).

Also lusting after a Grand Seiko SD from Seiya.

I recently checked my Panerai and found out it is one of the very first PAM001. The thing is worth four times the price I paid for it back then, even now that it's used. Crazy.

Giles, the Riki is awesome. Never heard of that brand before. What movement is in there? I suppose something like an ETA 2824 or do they use a Japanese Citizen Miyota?

The Panerai is great with jeans but I almost find it a bit too flashy. I wear it when I don't mind showing off a little but not for everyday. Very often I wear a Rolex Explorer I (fantastic watch), an ORIS GMT (just got that one) and a Breitling Chronospace. When I want to really tone it down I wear the Swatch (an Irony model that almost looks like a Calatrava, black and steel very classy), a Citizen Modena Chrono Ecodrive in Titanium (discontinued and a wonderful watch, precise, low maintenance, very good design and craftsmanship with polished Titanium case and band which is rare) or a Seiko Sportura Kinetic (the one with the pillow shape case).

I also do enjoy my G-shocks and funny enough I get quite a few comments on those. Nobody ever notices the JLC but it's in principle my best watch.

Till

[Giles]

It's a Seiko with a mechanical 7S based movement.  Riki Watanabe was a very influential industrial designer in post war Japan.  The watch is one of a series he designed for Seiko. 

I saw Dougng wearing one when I met up with him in New York earlier in the year and fell in love (with the watch - not him).  I put it on my Birthday list and Paula came up trumps.  You can pick them up new for under $200 on eBay which I think is a bargain - shit, I've heard that some people spend more than that on a pair of jeans

http://www.gmtplusnine.com/2007/03/25/alba-riki-watanabe-collection-a-step-above/

[tfar]

Very cool article and great watch at a great price. Very Bauhaus indeed. Also a design classic that wasn't mentioned is the Max Bill from 1962:
http://www.nova68.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=nova68&Product_Code=MB3701&Category_Code=

[stewart]

A year or so ago I considered purchasing a piece made by this company
http://www.vandergangwatches.nl/?lang=uk&main=collectie&sub=heren&subb=2000-19-20-21-22-23-24

I asked a couple of colleague's for their  advice (one of which has several luxury watches) and they said I was mad to consider one as it not "Swiss made"  and was just an IWC rip-off...did they have a point

[tfar]

A year or so ago I considered purchasing a piece made by this company
http://www.vandergangwatches.nl/?lang=uk&main=collectie&sub=heren&subb=2000-19-20-21-22-23-24

I asked a couple of colleague's for their  advice (one of which has several luxury watches) and they said I was mad to consider one as it not "Swiss made"  and was just an IWC rip-off...did they have a point

Well, they were not that knowledgeable then. It says yours has a 7753 calibre. That's a variation of the ETA-Valjoux 7750 which is one of the most used SWISS chronograph movements. The deal is that IWC actually uses these, too. I am not sure whether they use it in the specific corresponding model but it is easy to find out for you. They usually put some additional fineries in it and give it a nicer finish but it is not in that sense a manufacture/ in-house movement. Moreover, this one is limited. One can also easily tell that this is not a cheap rip-off. How is it in price compared to the IWC?

Wanna blow them off? Get a Lange & Soehne. Not Swiss made but excellent. But they might still belong to the same conglomerate as IWC. There are essentially two or three big holdings that own most of the luxury manufactures.

Till

[stewart]

The price of the model I was looking at was (if memory serves) €7000.  I think it is about same price to similar IWC model.

[tfar]

In that case, I'd really get into the details and compare both watches carefully. When you have done that, let your heart speak and simply pick the one that ticks right with you. I'd also look into other brands and wonder whether 7000 Euro wouldn't get you a really nice manufactured caliber. You could get a Jaeger LeCoultre for that price and a nice one. Or a Blancpain with a JLC movement. Also a good idea to think of resale value.

Till

[stewart]

Till thanks for that. Post credit-crunch I need to re-evaluate anyway !!!!

[Heavy Duty]

A year or so ago I considered purchasing a piece made by this company
http://www.vandergangwatches.nl/?lang=uk&main=collectie&sub=heren&subb=2000-19-20-21-22-23-24

I asked a couple of colleague's for their  advice (one of which has several luxury watches) and they said I was mad to consider one as it not "Swiss made"  and was just an IWC rip-off...did they have a point

Well, they were not that knowledgeable then. It says yours has a 7753 calibre. That's a variation of the ETA-Valjoux 7750 which is one of the most used SWISS chronograph movements. The deal is that IWC actually uses these, too. I am not sure whether they use it in the specific corresponding model but it is easy to find out for you. They usually put some additional fineries in it and give it a nicer finish but it is not in that sense a manufacture/ in-house movement. Moreover, this one is limited. One can also easily tell that this is not a cheap rip-off. How is it in price compared to the IWC?

Wanna blow them off? Get a Lange & Soehne. Not Swiss made but excellent. But they might still belong to the same conglomerate as IWC. There are essentially two or three big holdings that own most of the luxury manufactures.

Till

My view. That ETA movement is used in the Fliegerchronograph and is HEAVILY modified to such a degree that it bares little resembalance to  it's original state and although not totally there own work it can be considered as one, (take for example  Alpina's reworking of BMW's). The IWC's movement for the corresponding one(Portuguese Chrono) that the one Stewart has pic'd is far superior.  And to some it up in short this looks far to similar to the Port Chrono no matter how limited it is and as such i'd pass on it and take as you said take a look at other 'proper' brands at that price range.

[Giles]

Personally, I woould go for Portuguese any day...

[Heavy Duty]

Personally, I woould go for Portuguese any day...

Beautiful watch. Was looking at one of those the other day, and a Big Pilot Top Gun Editon, and a Rolex Milgauss. Choices,choices,choices

[tfar]

Those are good choices to have.

For me, both of the watches would be too "fashion". There are very few watches by IWC that turn me on. The Portugieser in the original version with pocket watch movement is one of them. I almost got that once but then decided to get a JLC Master Date when it had just come out. Got one of the first 1000 pieces. I don't regret the decision. The other watch that is wonderful is the old Da Vinci. That was also a really good price because it was the lowest price QP with Chrono and Moonphase (and some even with Rattrappante) in gold on the market. No wonder they stopped it. The Aquatimer and Ingenieur are beautiful for their design but like the Pilot watches not really special for the movement.

For Rolex, I really like the entire Explorer thing but I hate the new RBR (rolex brand rehaut). It's flashy and not classy at all. THe new face design is also a bit unproportional. I do like the ton-sur-ton grey look of the Yachtmaster, though. And it is still very rarely seen.

Till