Hi, Guest

Author Topic: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?  (Read 415 times)

Online Giles

  • IHUK Crew
  • *******
  • Join Date: Sep 2009
    • View Profile
Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« on: May 29, 2020, 10:44:57 am »
On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.

"image0.jpeg"

And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem. 

Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be...

"03.jpg"
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline jay-cy

  • Haraki-san Prodigy
  • ***
  • Join Date: Jan 2017
    • View Profile
Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2020, 10:48:28 am »
that corresponds to what I found.
So it should be a general issue with folded curved hems...

Online Giles

  • IHUK Crew
  • *******
  • Join Date: Sep 2009
    • View Profile
Re: Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2020, 10:59:51 am »
That are double or triple thick.....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline jay-cy

  • Haraki-san Prodigy
  • ***
  • Join Date: Jan 2017
    • View Profile
Re: Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2020, 11:18:09 am »
jep, material thickness certainly matters!
I also have shirts of also substantial thickness in which the hem is „countered“ by a seam band sewn from the other side. This seems to avoid the roll-up...

"B75CAE80-4B14-4532-816F-C964CE3ACD22.jpeg"

Online Kasi

  • Iron Heart Deity
  • *****
  • Join Date: Oct 2014
  • Anonymous
    • View Profile
Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2020, 06:07:29 pm »
Some new knowledge learn to today...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Offline Chris

  • 見習いボス
  • *******
  • Join Date: Jun 2010
    • View Profile
Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2020, 05:36:13 am »
And that nicely explains why the denim and wabash shirts roll more than the chambray.

Offline steelworker

  • 啓蒙家
  • ******
  • Join Date: Apr 2014
    • View Profile
Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2020, 08:07:02 am »
Haraki has given me the explanation.

On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.


And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem. 

Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be...

I read that and actually found it interesting.I think theres something wrong with me. :P
Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

Online Giles

  • IHUK Crew
  • *******
  • Join Date: Sep 2009
    • View Profile
Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2020, 08:15:42 am »
Join the club....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline BloodnThunder

  • 啓蒙家
  • ******
  • Join Date: May 2015
    • View Profile
    • Preferential Treatment
Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2020, 02:46:18 pm »
This is definitely one of those bits of clothing nerd knowledge that will get you a funny 'why do you know that' look if you tell someone.