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Author Topic: Ask Giles Anything  (Read 29195 times)

Offline Soleamp

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #165 on: August 27, 2021, 03:46:18 pm »
I'm a relative newcomer on here, although I have lurked for a while, so this has probably been answered somewhere else.  Since you have said that you pretty much wear one pair for a year, what do you do with all of your old/retired pairs (since they all look pretty amazing once you are done with them)?

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #166 on: August 27, 2021, 04:41:42 pm »
They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Soleamp

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #167 on: August 27, 2021, 05:29:16 pm »
They either go into the archives here, or we send them out to retailers for them to display....

Figured it was probably something like that...definitely display worthy.  Mine just go in my closest, haha.

Offline jordanscollected

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #168 on: September 16, 2021, 05:45:59 pm »
Giles-

I've been curious but have had problems forming the question to go from my brain out my mouth hole.

What % of the factories time that Haraki uses are just spent making Iron Heart clothing? Do the factories make clothes for other brands too? If so, could we assume those other brands have the same quality construction as Iron Heart but without the proprietary materials that Haraki weaves? I can see another Japanese company boasting, "Sewn by the same people who make Iron Heart's famous 21 oz. jeans or western shirts)

I feel like i could ask a ton of supporting questions, but I think I have it laid out there.





Minnesota, USA

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #169 on: September 16, 2021, 05:56:20 pm »
Jeff,

We use a number of factories, all of who make clothes for other brands.  I do not know what percentage, but it is rising all the time as we grow and most other brands in our space are treading water at best.  In fact, we had a Zoom with H on Tuesday and we discussed the fact that our single biggest constraint on growth was how much time we could/can get in the factories.  Haraki has just started negotiating more time in each factory.  I gave him his opening gambit "you want to back a winner or a loser?".........Re: the quality, perhaps there are various "levels" and therefore price-points for making stuff.  I do know that Haraki is an absolute sticker for quality, and if I know, you can bet your bottom Dollar that the factories know that too.  Add to this, Haraki is extremely highly respected in the whole Amekaji space, would you want to irritae him?
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline mclaincausey

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #170 on: September 16, 2021, 08:01:25 pm »
@Giles , filed under "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," I wonder whether there will ever be a situation where it makes sense for IH to vertically integrate some of their lines. I guess you really have to be at the right scale and rhythm to pull that off and perhaps companies like The Flat Head were more vulnerable if they were more integrated than IH. I could see the share of production for a factory trending up until it hits 100%, and then a "feck it, let's buy you out" thing happening, but it seems like the flexibility to source different factories works out awfully well for all of us and I don't understand how in-housing would impact internal costs, quality, and flexibility... but it intrigues me as a topic.
Think it, be it.

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #171 on: September 16, 2021, 09:56:30 pm »
We built a shirt factory once.  The first (and only) shirt we made there was the ill-fated IHSH-102-TG.  We decided to let someone else have the shag and hassle....
« Last Edit: September 17, 2021, 09:42:34 am by Giles »
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline DrPat

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #172 on: September 17, 2021, 09:20:46 am »
What was wrong with the IHSH-102?  I had the maroon and cream but sold it because the arms were too short for me.  Otherwise I thought it was a good shirt.

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #173 on: September 17, 2021, 09:30:11 am »
I should have been more specific, It was this one )post above edited for clarity):

Turquoise/Grey Ultra Heavy Buffalo Check Work Shirt
IHSH-102-TG

Towards the end of the article.

https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/
« Last Edit: September 17, 2021, 09:40:56 am by Giles »
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Bfd70

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #174 on: September 18, 2021, 02:52:52 pm »
I seem to remember a release schedule posted but cannot find. Am i mistaken?

Offline goosehd

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #175 on: September 18, 2021, 02:57:10 pm »

Offline Bfd70

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #176 on: September 18, 2021, 04:08:06 pm »
Thanks

Offline Nkwkfld

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #177 on: September 24, 2021, 05:24:29 pm »
Hi Giles hope you had a good fishing trip. I just moved into a house that needs work. Some parts of it might more reasonably be called a shit hole. For example, this 15cm bathroom scab was where the previous owner pulled a toilet roll holder out of the plaster and brick. But there are also cracks to the outside walls. Can you or Les recommend a good builder who can repair brickwork and do general repairs in Eastney?

Offline weftyarn

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #178 on: September 24, 2021, 05:37:48 pm »
https://www.japanalogue.com/giles-padmore-of-iron-heart-talks-covid-slub-recalls-and-overdyeing-whilst-making-jam/

That is such an interesting read. And you are 100% right with your conclusion that people (me at least) don't buy for the weight, but for the quality.

I can imagine though, that customer get drawn in by the heavy, by that get to learn the quality and, finally, then opt for all the other amazing products, heavy or not. Am I right with that?
Use it or lose it.

Offline mclaincausey

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #179 on: September 24, 2021, 05:41:00 pm »
That was my journey, @weftyarn , though I would add the level of service and ethics that the international team consistently demonstrates figures in as well.
Think it, be it.