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Author Topic: Ask Giles Anything  (Read 29750 times)

Offline SKT

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #225 on: November 03, 2021, 05:53:13 pm »
I’ve noticed that jean’s measurements can vary significantly run to run. Is this by design so as to cover the most customers or is it just by chance?  Apologies if it’s been discussed before.

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #226 on: November 03, 2021, 06:08:23 pm »
Not intentional.  A roll of denim can have different characteristics from one end of the roll to the other, even changes in the humidity within the mill can change the nature of the weave hour by hour. When we cut the parts needed for a pair of jeans, we have to do it in the same part of the roll, if we do it from different parts or different rolls they will look like toned down harlequin pants.  The old Toyoda looms are temperamental at best, so that creates variance too. Even sewing a pair up can change from operator to operator and sewing machine to sewing machine......
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Offline SKT

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #227 on: November 03, 2021, 06:17:26 pm »
Thank you Giles. I find the whole process fascinating. Part of the fun for me, now that I’m getting the hang of sizing, is the hunt for the “right” one. I think the variation adds to that experience season by season.

Offline neph93

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #228 on: November 03, 2021, 06:20:41 pm »
I think the variation adds to that experience season by season.

After eight or so years of buying IH jeans you get pretty good at it. Even then the odd curveball comes in. A fabric you don’t know the stretch of, or when trying a new cut.
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Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #229 on: November 03, 2021, 06:21:08 pm »
We had a guy who worked for us once, he simply could not get his head around the sizing variance.  My argument was even Pirelli F1 tyres have sizing variance....

We actually see it as a virtue, it allows us to more often find someone's ideal size.......
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline SKT

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #230 on: November 03, 2021, 06:29:24 pm »

We actually see it as a virtue, it allows us to more often find someone's ideal size.......

Exactly why I thought it might be by design. It does seem to work out for everyone…if the measurements don’t work this go round, fingers crossed for next run.

Offline Nkwkfld

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #231 on: November 03, 2021, 06:53:53 pm »
There are great photo tours of the Japanese factories on the forum that have made me curious about the people who work them. What are the conditions for the labourers who make the garments? Are they unionised? Also wondering if there has ever been any though to do some production in UK?

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #232 on: November 03, 2021, 07:09:56 pm »
I honestly do not know if they are unionised.  The conditions are brilliant, they get well paid, work sensible hours etc etc.  No thoughts of manufacturing in UK....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Nkwkfld

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #233 on: November 03, 2021, 10:20:46 pm »
Great thanks. It’s is clear from the level of quality that there is a lot of skill in the making.

Offline vaquero357

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #234 on: November 11, 2021, 09:04:22 pm »
...@Giles What does 'WB' stand for on the FW21 Release Schedule? Enquiring minds need to know! :)
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Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #235 on: November 12, 2021, 01:12:28 am »
Week Beginning
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline vaquero357

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #236 on: November 12, 2021, 02:12:27 am »
...explains your last big shipment. Thanks! :)
"When the last light warms the rocks and rattlesnakes unfold, mountain cats will come and drag away the bones" THF

Offline Giles

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #237 on: November 12, 2021, 08:59:22 am »
But I need to update the Schedule, the shipment took ages to arrive, and s=we still do not have all the cartons.....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline endo

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #238 on: November 12, 2021, 09:59:31 am »
M51 arrived ..?

Offline Alex

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Re: Ask Giles Anything
« Reply #239 on: November 12, 2021, 10:13:51 am »
If it had, we would have posted about it  :D