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Author Topic: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?  (Read 1530 times)

Online Giles

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Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« on: May 29, 2020, 10:44:57 am »
On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.

"image0.jpeg"

And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem. 

Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be...

"03.jpg"
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Offline jay-cy

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Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2020, 10:48:28 am »
that corresponds to what I found.
So it should be a general issue with folded curved hems...

Online Giles

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Re: Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2020, 10:59:51 am »
That are double or triple thick.....
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Offline jay-cy

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Re: Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2020, 11:18:09 am »
jep, material thickness certainly matters!
I also have shirts of also substantial thickness in which the hem is „countered“ by a seam band sewn from the other side. This seems to avoid the roll-up...

"B75CAE80-4B14-4532-816F-C964CE3ACD22.jpeg"

Online Kasi

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2020, 06:07:29 pm »
Some new knowledge learn to today...


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Offline Chris

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #5 on: May 30, 2020, 05:36:13 am »
And that nicely explains why the denim and wabash shirts roll more than the chambray.

Offline steelworker

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Re: IHSH-62-blk - 12oz Wabash Western Shirt - Black
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2020, 08:07:02 am »
Haraki has given me the explanation.

On a curved hem, like on most Iron Heart shirts,  the length of seam allowance edge (brown) is longer than the length of the seam stitch (orange). This creates a tendency for the fabric to curl towards the longer side.


And, there are 3 thicknesses of fabric on the hem. 

Given the thickness of the resulting seam, it is easier for the fabric to roll away from the bulky seam, than to roll towards the bulk.

It is something that can't be avoided, and the tendency to roll up is a direct function of the bulk and weight of the fabric.  The heavier/bulkier the fabric and thus the seam, the more pronounced the roll outwards will be...

I read that and actually found it interesting.I think theres something wrong with me. :P
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Online Giles

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2020, 08:15:42 am »
Join the club....
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline BloodnThunder

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #8 on: June 08, 2020, 02:46:18 pm »
This is definitely one of those bits of clothing nerd knowledge that will get you a funny 'why do you know that' look if you tell someone.

Online Giles

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2020, 09:52:23 am »
A rather excellent example....

14oz indigo/black western....

"IMG_8163.JPG"
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011

Offline Chris

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #10 on: November 30, 2020, 05:21:32 pm »
My wabash shirts do it, too.
"20201130_111940.jpg"

Offline JDelage

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #11 on: December 28, 2020, 04:16:59 pm »
Does that disappear over time, as the shirt gets worn?

Online Giles

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Re: Why do Iron Heart Shirts Hems Roll Upwards and Outwards?
« Reply #12 on: December 28, 2020, 04:18:31 pm »
Nope
"OK face up to it - you're useless but generally pretty honest and straightforward . . . it's a rare combination of qualities that I have come to admire in you" - Geo 2011